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Q&A

Posts tagged rock-climbing

Subtag of climbing

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Q&A Which fingers to use in a 2 finger pocket when rock climbing?

While rock climbing, when crimping a hold, I always use my index finger (and whatever other fingers fit) since I can stack my thumb on top. For two finger pockets is it better to use your index and...

5 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by StrongBad‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Tie in to harness, top to bottom or bottom to top

When tying into a harness with a figure eight follow through knot, does it matter if the running end comes up through the tie in points or goes down through them? From the figure it is hard to s...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by AM_Hawk‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

Question knots rock-climbing
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Q&A Red River Gorge Summer

I'm planning a rock climbing trip this summer and I've been considering the Red River Gorge as a possible stop. I've been there before in the late fall and it was absolutely awesome in terms of spo...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by Peter Conti‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to visually identify a rap hanger?

If I'm out on the rock and I come across a pair of hangers, how can I tell the difference between rap hangers (the kind you can directly thread rope through to rappel) and regular hangers (the kind...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by Chris Mendez‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do you compare between different rock climbing grades?

Different countries and rock climbing disiplines have different grading systems, for example the the British trad grade system (e.g. grade HVS 5(a)) and the US point grading system (e.g. 5.9) If ...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A What happens to cams after climbing?

What do people do with their cams after they've reached the top of the rock? Is there some special way of getting them down again? Seeing the prices of around 50 € per piece they can hardly just le...

3 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by David‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Toprope webbing anchor with figure 8 knots

I recently made a toprope anchor extending from a tree about 15' over the edge of the cliff using 1" webbing. The webbing was looped around the tree using a figure 8 follow-through, with sufficient...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by user8081‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

Question knots rock-climbing
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Q&A What is a "sling belay?"

Rock climbing topos have various standardized symbols, such as xx for a bolt anchor, or a dashed line for face climbing. In keys of symbols, I've sometimes seen SB defined as a "sling belay." What ...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

Question rock-climbing
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Q&A How can I practice Climbing without the actual wall and/or equipment?

I had never been a gifted kind of a climber being more fascinated by Backpacking than Rock Climbing. Its been almost 2 years that I did some genuine climbing. And, I am planning to resume it very s...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Precautions needed to be taken regarding bee hives (honey) during Climbs

I am a regular climber and a hiker. Having an experience of more than 600 hikes and around 30 technical climbs, I have realized that during rock-climbing, the climbers are bound to face Honeybees w...

1 answer  ·  posted 11y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Rock climbing over edge - What can I put under the rope to protect it?

I am working on a very fun problem with an overhung roof that induces serious rope drag (Goat Rock Roof @ Castle Rock if you know it). I am very nervous about training this beta intensive problem g...

3 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by SwimBikeRun‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A What to do if the second seems stuck and absolutely no communication is possible?

Backstory: A few months ago, I experienced the following situation: We (two people) were climbing the last pitch of a multi-pitch route. Near the end, there was a cave-like chimney. Basically a ch...

4 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by anderas‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is clipping directly onto a dyneema sling safe?

I was recently doing a scramble route in North Wales. We needed to get past a large rock spike, though easy climbing, it was quite exposed and not a good place to take a fall. As a safety backup I ...

5 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A What to do at the top of a sport climb

I dabble a little at leading trad, but have never led a sport route. If I do a sport lead, I want to make sure I don't make some stupid mistake when I get to the top. For example, I don't want to...

3 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A BMC Discount on Climbing Walls

What does the BMC membership discount encompass? Is it just climbing and mountaineering shops or is it other paid for services? More specifically, would the BMC membership discount apply to the en...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by Beta Decay‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is rope-soloing inherently dangerous, and if so, why?

I've never tried rope-soloing and don't have a very detailed idea of how it's done. But reading the 2015 edition of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, I was struck by how many accidents ha...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Should you occasionally use locking biners on pieces of protection when using alpine draws?

Since I mostly climb trad style, I don't use quickdraws for leading outside of the gym. I use alpine quick draws (two biners joined by dyneema slings) which offer benefits of adjustable length, red...

3 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Joseph Nields‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Would tied strips of webbing have similar strength to a climbing rope?

i have a bunch of several-feet-length strips of webbing (polypropyrene) and was wondering if tied together, it can maybe be used as a climbing rope?

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by poutdrs‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to use a Rap Ring

I have never used a Rappel Ring before but I am told they are really useful. Apparently, if you're trying to rappel in a situation where you have to leave gear at the top to get down safely: use a...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by theJollySin‭  ·  last activity 8y ago by System‭

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Q&A Rope between legs while leading on rock, ice

When you're lead climbing, the most common way for the rope to hang naturally, if you don't do anything special, is usually between your legs. Is this OK on rock? On ice? Why or why not? On rock, ...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to calculate the force (kN) generated by a falling climber onto their protection?

What method would I used to calculate the likely force placed on a piece of protection if I were to fall onto it. Using knowledge of my weight, distance between myself and the gear and the amount o...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by aaaaargZombies‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A When should you remove old pitons?

We were up above the treeline below the final climb to a scarcely visited cave and discovered an old rusty piton with a length of weathered webbing tied to it. It was obviously there as a safety fo...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by ShemSeger‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to go about replacing sport climbing bolts?

There has been handful discussions about How to fix a bolt on a climbing route. But there seldom any point made about How the one should go about when removing/replacing the bolts. When to decide...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Are manual double-back buckles on harnesses considered obsolete?

My current harness has these single-piece buckles: (source: http://www.mountaineeringmethodology.com/harness/) It might be due for replacement in one or two years, and I really like these buckle...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by anderas‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question gear rock-climbing
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Q&A Bolt Conditions at the New River Gorge

I am getting back into sport climbing and I am planning a trip to the NRG. I get very nervous about safety issues in regards to climbing, almost to the point where I don't want to start again. One...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by Andrew‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the best rope material to use for climbing protection?

I've been doing some research on what type of cord to use for resligning some hexes, and I found something very surprising here. Basically, the paper seems to suggest that while the tensile streng...

0 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Joseph Nields‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why do many climbers appear to not trust their belay loops?

The belay loop is the strongest part of the climbing harness, so why do so many climbers not trust it? It’s very common to see climbers backing up their belay loop with a separate piece of webbing ...

6 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How can you safely set up a climbing anchor from above?

Let's say I'm walking to the top of a really nice cliff. Take a look at this beauty: And there are some nice cracks to place some protection in, with the slings/rope coming off the cliff, kinda...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Joseph Nields‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why do big wall harnesses have two belay loops?

I've been looking at big wall harnesses and I've been noticing that a lot of them come with two belay loops: I know that it isn't there as a back up. What's the advantage of having two belay ...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by ShemSeger‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A "Used" top rope when bouldering

My friend and I often boulder around my home instead of driving to the local area, and when attempting some more challenging features, such as overhangs and slightly taller cliffs, we would feel be...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Liam McInroy‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Big Wall Rock Climbing - Harness Off

Do climbers ever remove their harness when they are sleeping on the side of cliffs or for going to the bathroom? I imagine I would want to keep my harness on and be roped into the anchor even if t...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by maxwell‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there any difference between a harness used for rock climbing vs for mountaineering?

I've recently taken an interest in both rock climbing and mountaineering. Both require a harness, but is there any difference in the harness used for each activity? I understand that the most basic...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by nhinkle‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Guidelines for safe use of ATC Nano?

The photo below shows my new ATC Nano. Sweet! This is an innovative new belay device that is definitely going to be in my ultralight mountaineering setup from now on. After all, when you're bagging...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question rock-climbing
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Q&A Lowering a climber from above using a belay device in autolocking mode

I recently gave a belay from above to a group of five people who were all doing the same single-pitch climb and then being lowered off. (In this case the reason for belaying from above was that the...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A "Tag line"/"pull cord" for multipitch trad: what kind and when needed?

I normally climb with a single 10 mm x 60 m rope. On some multipitch trad climbs, I don't expect to have to rappel off, but I might have to in an emergency. Many people carry a special-purpose 6 mm...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A water knot vs figure 8 follow through vs X for rock climbing anchor - What is easiest to untie?

I've recently been using figure 8 follow through on anchor webbing, and although it takes more time to dress properly and setup than a water knot, it's easier to untie at the end of the day and I f...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by SwimBikeRun‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question knots rock-climbing
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Q&A What are the rules to grade sport climbing single pitch routes?

What do you think is the correct way to grade a single pitch route (about 10 to 30 meters)? I know climbing grade are affected by subjectivity. However is there a list of objective elements to tak...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Emiliano Poggi‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Belay with a broken arm

I follow Andy Kirkpatrick(Hull's second best climber) on instagram. He rencently posted this photo: with the comment: Teaching self rescue...(how to belay with a broken arm) It looks like ...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to use legs more effectively to avoid grip stress on overhangs

Overhangs are a weak point in rock climbing for me currently. I think I know the theory: the goal is to use the legs to push yourself up, keep straight arms as much as possible and avoid pulling, a...

3 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by djechlin‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Toproping with two ropes joined by a double fisherman's

The other day we were waiting in line for a popular 200 foot single pitch climb in the valley and the party in front of us was using two 70 meter ropes they had joined together with a double fisher...

2 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by DudeOnRock‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Lowering off from anchors vs. rappelling after a climb?

What is recommended after finishing a sport climb--lowering off from the anchors or rappelling ? Rappelling preserves the hardware better, but is usually thought to be more dangerous since you take...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Learning to fall when leading: what is good fall technique?

I'm learning to lead climbs, and I'm terrified of big falls. Part of this is learning to trust my gear placements, but a large portion is because I don't know how to fall - I've only taken small fa...

5 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by simont‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question rock-climbing
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Q&A What this instrument is used for?

Just like everyday, I was at the climbing wall this morning, when I reached, there was a group (I have not seen anyone of them there, ever, it being a local place, I know almost everyone who comes ...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question gear rock-climbing
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Q&A What equipment do I need as a beginner outdoor rock climber?

What are the bare essentials that I need in terms of equipment when it comes to rock climbing? I've done indoor rock climbing but always rented my equipment from the rock-climbing gym. (For the pu...

7 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Laura‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question gear rock-climbing
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Q&A How should a climbing rope be stored?

I've purchased my first climbing rope and am wondering how it should be stored when not in use. I have a rope bag which I assume is a good home for the rope; should it be kept tightly coiled insid...

4 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by STW‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A When should you start to train with Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards?

From which bouldering and climbing grades do you start using Campus Boards, Hang Boards and Peg Boards for training?

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to achieve a climbing anchor that can withstand an upward load?

Commonly when setting SARENE-SA trad anchors on multi pitch routes the only protection available are nuts/wires. Additionally, there is very rarely an option to place a nut to protect against an u...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by ldgorman‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Methods for taping injured wrists

I would like to ask If someone knows a method for taping wrists that supports wrists. I got stretched tendon in my wrist and I would like to support it with tape. I have only found methods for maki...

0 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by David‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question rock-climbing
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Q&A Do climbers shave limbs?

I just bumped into this page at the Bicycles at StackExchange, which talks about how shaving limbs can help a cyclist. Does the same apply to climbers?

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question rock-climbing
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Q&A Leader injured during multipitch trad climb, what to do?

I've been working on improving my self-rescue skills, but the skills I've learned so far seem to pertain mostly to single-pitch climbing. For example, a lot of people emphasize knowing how to escap...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭