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Q&A

Posts tagged climbing

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Q&A Why is the "alpine style" of climbing not as popular in the Himalayas?

While there have been some accomplished climbers who have done this in the Himalayan peaks, alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas. Most climbing is done in the expedition style with...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Yogesch‭  ·  last activity 5mo ago by Mithical‭

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Q&A Why is the official guidance to entirely detach fall protective gear before moving from a mechanically elevated platform to a tower?

While taking the certification course for working at height, the official recommendation for moving from a cherrypicker / crane device to a tower was to completely detach your fall protective gear ...

1 answer  ·  posted 2y ago by Mithical‭  ·  last activity 2y ago by Charlie Brumbaugh‭

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Q&A Can you Rappel with an Old Climbing Rope?

I received an old climbing rope, whose history is unknown. I know this rope should not be used for any situations where a fall is possible since it may have already sustained one. However, can it ...

2 answers  ·  posted 4y ago by Jesse Yishai‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Statistics on types and survivability of anchor failures?

The most recent (2013) edition of Climbing Anchors, by Long and Gaines, makes some interesting statements in the preface about catastrophic failures of anchors. Long first says that: when belay anc...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Have a couple basic Q's on climbing-line (1 on safely descending/rappelling, another on using multiple lines and/or hardware to achieve "1+1=2"?)

Hoping to ask a couple basic Q's before my order arrives, I suspect I may've gotten insufficient gear.. 1 - Is doubling-up ropes, or hardware, ever acceptable in climbing? IE, my 8mm prusik cord ...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by WantToClimb‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

Question knots climbing ropes
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Q&A How to take care of climbing hands?

Being a climber one aim is to toughen up your hands (related: How to toughen up hands?). Building up callused skin is important but how do you keep it? Having dry hands especially from the climbing...

4 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A What kind of Rope for a Bosun's Chair

I'm going to make a bosun's chair to lift me 40 ft in the air to a tree platform (with at least a 6' clearance, so closer to 50'). Of course I would like the right type of rope with the right tensi...

1 answer  ·  posted 4y ago by Jesse Yishai‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A If the Dawn Wall had been climbed before, why was the 2015 attempt so difficult?

There's a lot of talk in the media about Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell's free ascent of the dawn wall of El Capitan. This wall has been climbed before, but this is the first time it's been fr...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Question about climbing in "A Line Across the Sky"

I've been watching "A Line Across the Sky" which is a short-ish movie about Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold doing the Fitz Roy traverse. During which Tommy Caldwell mentions Alex doing a 1000 and ...

1 answer  ·  posted 4y ago by Morten Nissov‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A What&#x2019;s the main appeal for climbing outdoors?

I am a long time gym climber, and I climbed outdoors for a couple of times. I fail to understand why climbing outdoors is more appealing than climbing indoors. If the goal is to climb harder, whi...

11 answers  ·  posted 4y ago by user3667089‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Are "fall-arrester" devices used in climbing/mountaineering?

I came across an interesting looking device on the Petzl website. As per the description, the mobile fall arresters follow the user automatically as he moves, whether on an inclined or vertic...

2 answers  ·  posted 4y ago by Yogesch‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Cotton climbing pants with a zipper pocket (outdoor rock climbing use for small female climbers)

the "politicised" debate of female clothing not having pockets (it is especially about skirts and dresses) left aside, I wonder if there are any cotton climbing pants left on the market that have a...

0 answers  ·  posted 4y ago by canIchangethis‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why are full body harnesses uncommon in mountaineering?

In principle, it is known that full body harnesses are useful for situations where the center of gravity is higher - e.g. for children, or for Alpine situations involving carrying heavy loads. A fu...

1 answer  ·  posted 4y ago by Yogesch‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A What knot was used by my mountain guide to tie me in to the middle of a rope?

Twice now I have been out winter hiking with a guide and another person and I'm trying to work out what knot they used to tie the middle person onto the rope. Let's say the guide is in front, my c...

3 answers  ·  posted 4y ago by tonicsoft‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Guide mode ATC with locker to belay loop

So just questioning some advice I received once: When in guide mode when belaying a second from above, is it ok to take the locking carabineer and attach it to your belay loop? The primary benefit...

2 answers  ·  posted 4y ago by Daniel Harvey‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Where can I get little durable cases you can hang on your climbing harness?

On longer climbing sessions I like to keep my cell phone close by, but most of the time I have no backpack with me. So I would like to pack the cell phone in a little case that I can put on my clim...

2 answers  ·  posted 4y ago by Andreas Schwab‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why would you climb hard bigwall projects in Yosemite in winter?

One of the hardest routes on El Cap, The Dawn Wall, was done by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in January 2015. What are some of the reasons to choose to climb such a hard route in winter, when ...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Paul Paulsen‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there a good way to be kept up-to-date with climbing gear recalls?

In the last years, there were a few occasions when companies would put out recalls on their climbing gear due to manufacturing defects. For example, Black Diamond recalled some improperly riveted c...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by anderas‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can you use a rope that has been in storage for a few years?

A guy I'm talking to about buying some rock climbing gear is getting rid of his stuff cause he hasn't used it in five to eight years. He said it wasn't used a lot, maybe 5 to 6 times, and he said n...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by user2916‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

Question gear climbing
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Q&A How to belay top-rope climbers who are ascending quickly?

Some of my climber friends are pretty fast climbers with a speed of about 20s for a 10m long route. The really fast ones use auto-belaying-systems seen on speed climbing competitions. Those auto-...

6 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Andreas Schwab‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the term for completing a climbing route uncleanly?

If a climber completes a route without using their protection that is called sending. What is the term if one completes the route but had to depend on the rope either for a rest or for a fall? Le...

6 answers  ·  posted 4y ago by Adam‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A What to look for in climbing shoes?

Having just completed my Boulding induction at a local rock climbing gym, what requirements should I look for in a pair of my own climbing shoes? Assume here cost is not a primary factor.

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Aravona‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why don't climbing professional use all their fingers on small holds?

Why do climbing professional use less than 5 fingers on some holds? From https://www.lagrimpe.com/abc/le-mono-ou-bi-doigt/ I mean, why don't they put the other fingers, even if they don't quite...

4 answers  ·  posted 4y ago by Mathieu Krisztian‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there a utility / method to organize trad gear so that each piece is immediately accessible?

When preparing for a trad climb, I usually divide my rack into separate groups where each group is connected to a single carabiner. So for example all the small nuts go into carabiner 1, middle ran...

1 answer  ·  posted 4y ago by Nina Kaprez‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can a Gri-Gri work if the cam is prevented from engaging?

Based on comments on this question. If the moving cam on a Gri-Gri is prevented from engaging (perhaps by a belayer firmly holding onto the device), can you still brake effectively? By "brake eff...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by jhch‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Should a carabiner ever be clipped to the tie-in loops and should anything other than a carabiner ever attach to the belay loop?

I'm a beginning climber and am trying to resolve conflicting instruction related to tying into my harness. During a recent outing a friend (an experienced climber, but not an instructor) was show...

6 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by STW‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

Question climbing safety
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Q&A What are known failure modes of the auto-braking mechanism of Grigris?

Disclaimer first: The brake-hand principle (always hold the braking strand of the rope) always applies to assisted braking belay devices, including the Grigri. This question is in no way targeted a...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by imsodin‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to heal a flapper quickly

I've noticed when climbing and bouldering I have a tendency to get occasional flappers on my palm. A flapper being a callus or blister that has peeled back and hangs on like a flap of skin. I trim ...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by BKlassen‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is the keeper wire loop on a tubular belay device necessary?

The Reverso 4, ATC Guide, and others all have a keeper wire loop for carrying. However, the wire seems unnecessary -- one could simply cut it off and carry the device using the large hanging eye or...

3 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Chris Mendez‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

Question gear climbing safety
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Q&A What to do with chalk when deepwater soloing?

I have been climbing for a short while and loving it. Now that I've gotten a fair bit of practice with indoor climbing I'm thinking about where this new love of mine can take me. The obvious answer...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by BKlassen‭  ·  last activity 4y ago by System‭

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Q&A How can I improve my footwork while rock-climbing?

When I'm rock climbing, I feel like I've got hand holds down as far as where to grab on and understand that the hands are mainly for balance. However, I can't seem to figure out my feet. There are ...

2 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by GorrillaMcD‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the strongest knot(s) for using on FLAT webbing slings? (joining and bight termination)

I'm trying to make myself a foot-loop that's connected by rope to one's handled-ascender (alongside an opposing-foot's ankle-ascender this allows rapid ascension up a single leg up of rope!) and ha...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by user18219‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing ropes
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Q&A Does a Mammut Smart Alpine belay device go well with a Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner? Any other recommendations?

Has anybody ever tried to use a cross-load protecting Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner with a Smart Alpine belay device? I do think the Smart Alpine does not go very well with the CRAG Smart HMS ...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Andreas Schwab‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Redundancy in rappel systems

What is the simplest setup for rappelling that is fully redundant? The most common system seems to be rappelling off of both strands of a rope passing through two rappel rings on separate anchors....

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Yuval Adam‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Things to keep away from climbing ropes

There are some no brainers like don't throw your climbing rope next to car batteries in the back of your car. The effect of bug sprays containing Deet seem to be controversial. I have also heard a ...

4 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by DJBunk‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Rappel: How do I start rappel from a ledge when using rappel extension

I'm using a rappel extension similar to what is shown in this video and that one. When the rappel start is a straight drop-off from a ledge and the anchor is low to the ground, I find it difficult...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by BobJ‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing rappelling
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Q&A Transition from ascending to descending a rope

Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer: Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope ...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Yuval Adam‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A "Large" eye of tie-in knot: dangerous?

There's a dispute in my climbing group whether a "large" eye of the tie-in knot can be considered dangerous. While I don't see a problem with a loop that is about 10 cm across, others argue that th...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Jasper‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing safety
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Q&A How much should my toes hurt in climbing shoes?

5.10s are known to be more comfortable, softer shoes, but I've also heard they tire your feet out faster. Edging, in particular, is harder in these shoes because it's your toes' responsibility inst...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by djechlin‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I know when it's time to replace my climbing shoes?

I've been climbing off and on for about 3 years now, but only started going regularly in the last 6 months. I've had the same pair of shoes for about 2 years now. My brother recently pointed out th...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by DohnJoe‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the v-notch on top of the &#x201C;Clickup&#x201D; climbing belay device for?

I’m wondering does anyone know what this part of a Click Up is for: I’m taking about the rounded cutouts on each side of the device on the climber side. In the normal position I can’t see what t...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Timmy O'Mahony‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing belaying
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Q&A What is the strongest knot using a steel-thimble to make a steel-eyelet at the end of the line?

(to be clear, I know I can just check knot-strengths for a general end-of-line attachment, it's the inclusion of the steel thimble - I'll find a link to add to end of post - it's that inclusion tha...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by WantToClimb‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question knots climbing
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Q&A Climbing-line "rope-thimbles", unsure how to utilize these (got several 1/2" 'steel rope thimbles' with my climb-rope!)

I got some 1/2" steel-thimbles for my climbing-rope but sadly I'm not sure how to safely use them, I'd thought "I can just tie a knot at just the right spot so that the thimble is securely nested i...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by WantToClimb‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question knots climbing ropes
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Q&A Does inside vs outside make a difference in a bowline on a bight?

This question asks whether the bowline knot is better with the tail inside or outside the loop. When climbing and tying in with a bowline on a bight, does it make a difference whether one starts ...

4 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by anderas‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the components of a good climbing kit for recreational tree climbing?

I've enjoyed climbing and cutting trees for many years. I now want to go to higher levels, but safety is a primary concern, because I am afraid of heights. I'm about to order gear for recreation...

0 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by WantToClimb‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Which knot for climbing: figure eight, yosemite bowline, bowline on a bight?

This is a topic often discussed online, but all I could find so far was people sharing their opinions (including numbers) on what tie-in knot is the best. Here's what I've found out from different ...

7 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by David‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to tie an EBSB bowline?

According to the most comprehensive reference ever written on bowlines, the EBSB bowline (which is a variation of another variation, called the EBDB bowline, together with a sort of Yosemite finish...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by QuantumBrick‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are other possible make-shift alternatives for chalk powder?

Climber's life rely heavily on equipment. Having all the necessary equipment for simplest of climbs is a must. But, if at all I forget to bring the chalk powder along, what other alternatives I hav...

3 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Chalk: pure, plus drying agent, liquid?

Having only used pure chalk without added substances so far, I wondered how the other types perform. Most of the information I could find online is either somebody ranting against a certain type, o...

2 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by David‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Travelling and taking climbing chalk through customs

Anyone had any experience getting climbing chalk though customs? I'm off to Guernsey and I don't think I'll be able to buy chalk there so I'm putting it in my hold luggage. Are customs likely to ...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭