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Q&A

Posts tagged climbing

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Q&A Selling older gear - is it likely to be safe?

My late husband died 7 years ago & I still have his gear. I'm not comfortable leading (and I've lost half my shoulder tendons anyway), so I won't use it. I think the ropes, etriers, etc shoul...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by Karen Batten‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is it OK to keep a dyneema sling under constant tension (slackline)?

The comment on a previous question I posted here: I am not sure whether this biner was aluminum, but it could be, so a warning (please excuse me if the biner is steel): Aluminum biners are ...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Technique for lead solo climbing with rope

In the past I saw climbers climb alone on multi-pitch routes only by themselves (but not free solo). What's a correct technique to do this? I know how to do it with two ropes, rope ascenders and o...

4 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by ibex‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do climbers retrieve anchored rope?

The following is a scene I have always been perplexed about. I’ve seen it many times. A mountain climber has no one above him as he descends and is trailing rope behind him that he is using to stab...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Dick Platt‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is a clove hitch to be distrusted in climbing?

Reading the description for a clove hitch on animated knots by Grog (the go to bible of knots IMO) I was surprised to read: Caution: The Clove Hitch was, originally, included here with the in...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A No testing for temperature-dependent effects on climbing ropes?

I'm reading the UIAA standard for climbing ropes, which is supplemented by the EN 892 norm (which I can't provide a link to, since this would be piracy). I'm sort of confused about the fact that, e...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by QuantumBrick‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How can you tie a clove hitch one handed?

I was watching a video this am where a guy tied a clove hitch and passed it though a carabiner one handed. This seemed a very handy technique to know. I usually use both hands to tie this, make a ...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What knot tightens under pressure and is difficult to untie under tension?

If I made a noose with this knot and lifted a heavy object by putting it inside the noose / knot: the knot should slip and hold the object tightly automatically it should be difficult to untie th...

3 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by learner‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question knots climbing
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Q&A How far would you need to fall for it to be fatal?

A little grim this but I was discussing free soloing with a non-climber in work and I said "Well once you get over a certain height you're not going to survive a fall anyway so anything over ...

9 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I tie a slackline with only carabiners and webbing?

Commercial slackline solutions seem bulky, heavy, overpriced, and a little too industrial for my liking. I have 6 carabiners and 50m of tubular webbing. What knots do you recommend for building, an...

2 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by Lost‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can you clean new bolt holes with water?

When drilling new holes for expansion anchor bolts, you need to clean the dust out of the hole before you hammer in the bolt. People will accomplish this by either using a blow tube or a bellows an...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by ShemSeger‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Avoiding tangles when leading on double ropes

Doing multipitch routes with double ropes is great, but (at least for me) inevitably results in messy tangles, twists, and crosses of the two ropes. What are some strategies to prevent the ropes f...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Felix‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Differences between shock absorber and via ferrata set

What are the differences between a shock absorber as it is used in professional rope access and a via ferrata set? As I found out that in my country shock absorbers have to fulfill EN 355 and via ...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by hochreutenerl‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the intention behind webbing the rope through snow?

Please refer the image below. This is a screenshot from the movie Meru which is about the successful attempt of climbing Meru by Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk. I didn't understand, why...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do you lower a backpack over a cliff without damaging it?

I was backpacking in Coyote Gulch, Utah this past week and ran into an issue with my 70 liter backpack. The entrance to the gulch through "Crack in the Wall" was a narrow "slot" entry, so the backp...

4 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by krishnab‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Safety in re-slinging old trad gear

I have read some posts here regarding the expiration dates of climbing material, especially trad gear. Friends and nuts (as all climbing equipment) have a lifespan of 10 years according to all manu...

3 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by QuantumBrick‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Ice Axes - Ice blade or Mix blade?

I have just got Grivel The Tech Machine Ice Axe. It comes with Ice blade by default. Mostly I am going to do Mix climbing on granite in Norway with Ice climbing occasionally. Do you recommend to g...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to train climbing endurance at home?

Close to my home, there is only a bouldering gym, but no climbing gym that offers roped climbing. But my real goal in climbing is leading harder/longer routes. The bouldering really improves my str...

4 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by anderas‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Fisherman rescue, what gear is required?

Apologies for the word problem. I'm sure there's a simple solution or two, but I'm trying to work out a real world scenario. We used to indoor top rope belay but that was years ago in boy Scouts so...

5 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Garrett Carson‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is climbing an ambidextrous sport?

We know left-footed football players, we know right-handed and left-handed batmen and bowlers, we know left-handed or right-handed tennis players, and so on.. I know being a right handed guy I co...

3 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to pull someone up in a rescue situation?

This question made me wonder how one should be pulled up in a rescue situation, e.g. when lowering is not an option. This answer explains a Z-pulley when in an alpine/glacier environment. I'm mor...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by knitti‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How fast does suspension trauma happen?

In this question I asked about suspension trauma and why it's effects come to be. Apparently the main reason is reduced blood flow/ circulation. This is due to blood vessels being constrained/pre...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by fgysin reinstate Monica‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can I fall out of my sit harness?

In sport and trad climbing, a sit harness is widely used (except for children). However, I wondered if there is the possibility to fall out of it? One situation where I could see this happen is in...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Paul Paulsen‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Which option should you use for a multi-pitch climbing anchor after traverse?

I am going to do a climb that has a long lateral traverse I drew up three options, and Option #2 seems to me to be preferable to the other options. What do you think the best option is for this ...

3 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by CanadaIT‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why does suspension trauma happen?

This question once more brought up the topic of suspension trauma. I tried to read up on the topic, but found that the Wikipedia page was not as informative as I would have liked. Especially I'm s...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by fgysin reinstate Monica‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What should one do when climbing if someone above you yells ROCK?

Hearing someone above you yell ROCK when climbing is a scary experience because that means that an object (usually a rock) is plummeting down to the route towards you. Hopefully you are wearing yo...

3 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Charlie Brumbaugh‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing at the Skytop area of the Gunks

The Skytop area at the Gunks has a number of stellar climbs including Foops (5.11) and Super Crack (5.12+). From what I can piece together, climbing there requires a guide and buying a meal/pass at...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by StrongBad‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What should I look for in a rope for climbing?

I just started rock climbing recently. I don't have any gear of my own and the first thing I wanted to get was a rope. There are various ropes of different prices. What should I look for when buyin...

4 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by GorrillaMcD‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question ropes rock-climbing
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Q&A Are climbing harnesses tested for upside down falls?

Does anyone know if standard climbing harnesses (not chest harnesses) are actually rated (e.g. tested and certified) for use in upside down falls? Obviously falling upside down is a bad idea, and ...

1 answer  ·  posted 8y ago by David Parks‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A A method to retrieve a carabiner

I saw this a few times, years ago I met some guys who were top roping next to us in Jackson Falls, IL 25 years ago who showed us a method of retrieving your top carabiner(s) when you were done top...

3 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Citizen‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Has Joe Simpson ever explained why he did not cut the rope himself?

I have just watched the docudrama "Touching the void" for the umpteenth time. I am a climber and mountaineer and have a great deal of respect for Simon Yates and his efforts to save Joe Simpson and...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by RoyC‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why should the angle in a rope attached to two anchors be 60 degrees or less?

This question asks how to set up a top rope anchor. It states that No angle of tension shall exceed 60 degrees. Why?

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Using Gri Gri 2 as a Self Belaying Device

The other day I was so desperate to go climbing, but I couldn't find a partner, so I ended up self belaying after googling and watching this video. I did check Petzl's site to learn that modifying ...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Neeku‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What belay systems would work for beginning climbers who can only use one arm?

A friend would like to start climbing but he can only use one arm. I've read about a few people climbing with one arm, but I haven't found advice on which gear to use. We are only at the beginning...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Nana‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can I use a bicycle helmet as a climbing helmet?

I have a bicycle helmet that fits well. Can it be used effectively as a rock climbing helmet? Most climbing helmets have a hard shell that the bicycle helmet does not. However, one of the more e...

5 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Mr.Wizard‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is a "spit anchor"?

In an English climbing guidebook about a French region, I read the term spit anchor in the general description of the equipment of the (multi-pitch) routes of some crags. I never heard that term b...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by anderas‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What do I do if I lose my belay plate?

The scenario My climbing partner and I are at the top of a pitch and we drop a belay plate to the ground. There is no safe descent, we were planning on rappelling down off safe anchors. What do w...

8 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Semi-static rope 24 hour rule

It is said that a semi-static rope should be submerged for 24 hours before first use. Why is this, and is this before every first use ?

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Nick‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Why is the category called "Open" in climbing competitions?

In climbing competitions there are usually the familiar competitor categories of beginner, intermediate, and advanced. Sometimes there are categories for youth or older climbers too. At bigger comp...

4 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Anssssss‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question climbing
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Q&A What do you hang on 1/4" bolts while rock climbing?

So 1/4" bolts, although not suitable for free climbing protection, are apparently still used for aid climbing to hold body weight, and for alpine rappels. What I want to know is, what do you use ...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by ShemSeger‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the measurable prerequisites of strength and/or flexiblity for starting to climb in a climbing gym?

If I were a couple of decades younger, I would seriously consider trying climbing in a climbing gym, but I doubt I have enough flexibility, and I would feel horribly out of place. The thing that a...

6 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by ab2 MonicaNotForgotten‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question climbing
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Q&A How to use an avalanche shovel as a snow anchor for a belay?

Avalanche shovels come equipped with holes in the blades for use as rescue sleds and making anchors. I've got plenty of my own ideas, but I'm looking for any documentation provided by manufacturers...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by ShemSeger‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the working range of TRUBLUE auto belay?

The local climbing gym has several TRUBLUE auto belays but one can soon tire of the same routes. Will the auto belay work if one climbs a route next to it? At what angles does it still arrest a fal...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by Chris Mendez‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there a general rule for climbing runout grading?

Climbing route grades in Yosemite Decimal System can be suffixed with an "R" to notify a runout. The Wikipedia entry for a runout is A lengthy distance between two points of protection which in...

3 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Chris Mendez‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What can I do with a retired rope and harness?

I've recently retired a rope (dynamic) and a harness. They're both in very good shape, but just over 8 years old. Common sense dictates I throw them away, but I wonder if there are other uses I can...

4 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by Roflo‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing with a much lighter partner?

Both my fiancee and myself bought some climbing gear recently and we're planning our first trip to an indoor rock gym this weekend. We decided to practice our knots and belay technique before we we...

3 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Blackbear‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How much stronger is a vertical v-thread than a horizontal one?

I was out ice climbing with a group today and they were using three-point anchors using two vertical v-threads (abalakovs) with one backup ice-bolt. They said the vertical v-threads (one hole over ...

2 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by ShemSeger‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to safely use reverso with ferrata harness?

Ferrata harnesses (FH) can be probably safely used also for climbing, as stated in another post. However, I am not sure how to use the reverso with FH. This is because in a usual FH, the belay ...

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by jjrr‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A What's the best way to swap lead when climbing in a group of three using a pair of half ropes?

On a multi-pitch route when all climbers have reached the belay point, what is the best way/what considerations need to be made, in order to swap lead? Obviously the leader will need to be tied int...

4 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by ldgorman‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I tie a double fisherman's knot?

In climbing, a double fisherman's knot is used to tie together two separate pieces of rope. How would I tie such a knot?

3 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Reverend Gonzo‭  ·  last activity 7y ago by System‭

Question knots climbing ropes