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Q&A

Posts tagged climbing

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Q&A How to prepare for a long rocky alpine route, which is unusual for me?

I would like to prepare for a long route (700 m altitude gain, 12-16 hours, including descent, with alpine start), one like which I have never [successfully] climbed before. It involves many sectio...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to use campus boards

I'm looking at improving (actually starting) my training regime. My local climbing Gym has just installed various campus boards. How do you use these to train effectively? What's the technique p...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing training
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Q&A Should I do exercises for finger strength as an intermediate, heavy climber?

I am climbing for quite a while now and would consider myself a beginning-intermediate climber. I feel my technique has significantly improved over the last year. I am very heavy (1,80m and ~100kg)...

6 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Paul Paulsen‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Using hiking boots for amateur rock-climbing

What are the practical aspects of using good quality hiking boots (e.g. ones shown below) for climbing? Arguably, an outdoor enthusiast might be involved in various sorts of activities from hik...

6 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Yogesch‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing: fear/panic on boulder wall

I am wondering if anyone else has experienced fear/panic that gets in the way of bouldering, and what their tips are for dealing with this. (There is a prior question on fear in lead climbing, but ...

2 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Mary‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are "Aggressive" climbing Shoes?

This question was borrowed from a comment on this question. But what is meant by an "aggressive" climbing shoe? What is the difference in a non-aggressive shoe? And when would you use one over the ...

1 answer  ·  posted 11y ago by MaskedPlant‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Keeping the things interesting in a small climbing gym

I had been a regular climber half a decade back. And, then I got off the routine. Now I am trying to get back into climbing. For that, I go to a local climbing gym kind of thing managed by a frien...

4 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Should I take my weight into account when buying and retiring climbing equipment?

In this excellent answer to Ideal and Minimal Rope Diameter for Lead Climbing it is shown how the falling weight affects the drops a rope is expected to survive. This led me to the following ques...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Paul Paulsen‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question gear climbing safety
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Q&A Can a Finger Pulley injury be predicted / anticipated?

I resumed climbing a couple of months back after a gap of a couple of years. After spending a month of quality time at the wall regularly in order to get back in touch, I have started to try differ...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How long can a new climbing rope be safe?

I have a climbing rope (Maxim, 11mm) that I bought back around 2008-2009 (so it's about 10 years old now). It has never been used, it's been stored properly, and the sheath and core appear to be i...

0 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by James‭

Question climbing top-roping
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Q&A How to shorten alpine slings into an alpine quickdraw?

Alpine slings are usually 60cm long and while they can be slung over one shoulder, it's much easier to carry them on your harness at 1/3 of the size in an alpine quickdraw. How would one shorten t...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Charlie Brumbaugh‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing
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Q&A Avoiding a "ding-dong" when lead belaying in the gym?

I sometimes climb in the gym with a partner who outweighs me by about 50%. When he's leading and falls from above his protection, I can get pulled up to the first clip. If he's not very far up, thi...

4 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What needs to be clipped to the climbing harness, and how to carry all additional gear?

I have been piling up carabiners, cordelette loops, webbing, ATC devices, Gri-Gri, etc., and it is all now hanging from my harness. This adds a considerable amount of weight and becomes a bit unwie...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Enjoy nature‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to overcome the fear of falling in lead climbing

I used to really enjoy climbing (almost all indoors). I was bouldering around V2-3 and leading at 5+. The mismatch was all down to fear of falling - I would repeatedly bail or fall from routes th...

7 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by aucuparia‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing training
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Q&A Is it safe to use a nylon climbing runner/webbing that has a small fray?

I have a 120cm nylon runner that I want to use to tether me to an anchor bolt while cleaning the anchor. The runner has a small fray (pictures below). Is it safe to use?

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Chris Morris‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to walk as a roped party on a glacier?

If you want to walk on a glacier you usually do this roped together as a team. How to walk as a roped party on a glacier? What I have to pay attention to when knotting the rope? Related ques...

3 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can an overhand loop be used to shorten nylon webbing as a personal anchor?

Is it safe to girth-hitch nylon webbing through my harness tie-in points and then shorten the webbing via an overhand loop (assume it is too long) and clipping the non-bight part to the bolt in the...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Chris Morris‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the key differences between Mountaineering and Rock Climbing?

I think the title speaks for itself. I have done a basic google search and I do not find the references to be sufficient. I'm looking for a short synopsis that would educate a layman such as myse...

7 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Russell Steen‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the advantages of being short when climbing?

My girlfriend often complains that a route or boulder was created for tall climbers. In my experience that sometimes is true: I easily get a hold, she has to jump. However, Lynn Hill proved that a ...

9 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What counts as climbing a mountain?

Obviously by anyone's definition, you need to reach the top to successfully climb a mountain, but after hiking to the top of Guadalupe Peak, where the peak is at 8,751 ft, but with a prominence of ...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Travis‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Train climbing with additional weight?

What is your opinion: Does it make sense to train rock climbing wearying a weight vest or a small backpack carrying a small amount of weight (let's say 1-3kg or 2-6.5lb) to mimic the actual weight ...

4 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Arne‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Good resources for climbing

We have a number of questions dealing with how start climbing, how to learn it (and how not to learn it) - e.g. Is it realistic to teach yourself rock climbing?, What to teach someone who wants to ...

3 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Paul Paulsen‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can I theoritcally climb The Mount Erciyes in the summer?

I recently wanted to climb that mountain because I literally love pushing myself and it looks fun. Information about me I am a 15.9 year old male teen (14-12-02) I live in İzmir Karşıyaka (30 me...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Delta Oscar Uniform‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A is it safe to use a 4mm cord for French Prusik auto-block friction hitch when rappelling off parallel 10mm dynamic rope?

I want to rappel off of 10mm dynamic rope. The rope will be fed through both sides of the ATC device (parallel). Is it safe to use a 4mm cord for my French Prusik auto-block knot? There is a simil...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Chris Morris‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question climbing rappelling
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Q&A When making an anchor with static rope around a boulder, what knot should I use

If I'm using a natural feature such as a boulder or a lump of rock as part of an anchor by tying a static rope around it, what are the best knots to use? I'm thinking that there would be different ...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by stib‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are the most important numerical features to look for when comparing climbing ropes?

When comparing dynamic ropes (single ropes) for climbing, which properties do really matter? I'm thinking about weight per meter and price, maybe diameter for very special belay devices. I'm goi...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Jasper‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question gear climbing
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Q&A Figure-8 Followthrough Question

Is it still considered a 'figure 8' knot when you dress it so the loop is perpendicular to the rest of the loop?

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by arborvitae‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question knots rock-climbing
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Q&A At what angle should an ice screw be screwed into the ice?

Recently we were climbing up a glacier with the ice at an angle of around 80°. We were placing the ice screws angling slightly upwards with respect to the slope of the ice wall. However, one from...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Ricketyship‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What rockfall protection equipment are there other than helmets?

We went climbing on a glacier recently. There was one issue which I couldn't find a solution to. While belaying from below (on the first pitch), it was pretty much impossible to protect self from r...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by Ricketyship‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How should a climbing rope be cleaned?

What products and process should be used to clean a climbing rope when it gets sufficiently dirty? How would I remove as much dirt and grime as possible without negatively affecting the strength o...

3 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by STW‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is clipping onto the rungs of a via ferrata bad practice?

I did my first via ferrata this weekend and noticed there were often long vertical distances separating the cable anchors. At times this length was around 10m. This meant that a fall before reachin...

5 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by alkey‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Internal (unseen) damage from a 40ft climbing fall

I am aware that the statistics regarding a 40ft climbing fall, which result in "decking-out" are not favorable. I survived such a fall only recently. Major injuries seem to have only been a broken ...

2 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Searching and reading back issues of Climbing and Rock and Ice

I am looking for an article that was published in either Rock and Ice or Climbing Magazine around 1999. I know the area and route of the article topic as well as the author's name. I may even have ...

2 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by StrongBad‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

Question rock-climbing books
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Q&A Dealing with twists in a rope while belaying

Like most climbers in my area, I use a rope bag to avoid having to reflake the rope after every climb. The downside of this is that the rope gradually aquires twists and after enough climbs, the r...

3 answers  ·  posted 5y ago by Qudit‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How unsafe is this belay technique really?

One person I regularly climb with uses a belay technique that I was taught to be unsafe, so I would like to know just how unsafe it really is. With a classic tube-style belay device, after taking i...

4 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by Sebastian Reichelt‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Backpack for both ice tools and snow shoes

Are there backpack types/systems that would allow to both conveniently carry snowshoes and ice tools? I always find that packs with good ice tool attachment system simply have no place for snowsh...

2 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by Tnatsissa H Craeser‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are opposite and opposed carabiners?

It is often said that when using two carabiners at the same point, such as an anchor, they should be opposite and opposed. What exactly does this mean?

1 answer  ·  posted 7y ago by Charlie Brumbaugh‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to progress in rock climbing after grades v4 / 5.11+?

I am wondering what is the best way to progress from being a consistent V4 and on-sight/redpoint 5.11 climber? I seem to have hit a plateau in my progression and it is super frustrating. Indoors, ...

3 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by Ice76‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do you decide on a climbing grade?

Rock climbing and bouldering tours are classified e.g. Sierra from 5.2 to 5.15c or Fontainbleau 2 to 8c+. As you advance in your climbing experience you achieve higher grades and learn new move...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What can I do to help relieve joint pain in fingers after climbing?

After I've been climbing for a while, my finger joints are very sore. Is there anything I can do to relieve that pain?

7 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Reverend Gonzo‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A Placing protection efficiently when leading trad?

I'm a beginning trad leader, having done about five easy fifth class leads. I've had some formal instruction, but don't currently have access to a teacher or mentor. I'm finding that I'm extremely ...

4 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A What is the best way to place a sling on a rock spike so that it's prevented from lifting off?

I occasionally place slings on rock spikes as trad climbing protection. If the spike is not very tall or thick the slings can become easily dislodged as the rope passes though the quickdraw/carabin...

1 answer  ·  posted 5y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How can I safely practice trad climbing?

I have climbed indoors and outdoors for several years, both top rope and sport, and I somewhat recently took an outdoor trad climbing class. In the class, we placed protection while on top rope and...

4 answers  ·  posted 8y ago by Chris Mendez‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do you tie in to the centre of a rope?

Suppose you're leading a short pitch (20-30m) and you have two followers, or you want to double rope the route, and want to simply half your rope and tie into the centre, pulling the two halves up ...

8 answers  ·  posted 7y ago by ShemSeger‭  ·  last activity 5y ago by System‭

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Q&A When did indoor climbing gyms start to become popular?

I am trying to learn some history about rock climbing. I know initially rock climbing was purely an outdoor activity, and according to this article in the 1990s indoor climbing gyms started to spri...

4 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by user3667089‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Can I use SteriGENE broad spectrum disinfectant on abseil rope?

I work in ecologically sensitive areas in NZ and my ropes routinely get soiled. I have been asked by the Dept of Conservation to clean and disinfect my ropes to minimise the chances of accidentall...

1 answer  ·  posted 6y ago by user34581‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing outdoors makes the skin of my palm red and sensitive

I mostly climb at a rock climbing gym, and I can climb for hours until my forearms run out of gas. However, when I climb outdoors, usually the reason I have to stop is because the skin of my palm...

1 answer  ·  posted 6y ago by user3667089‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to safely mark a rope

I was reading this question and the first thing that popped into my head is what do you use to mark the middle of the rope? I was taught not to use any kind of marker on the rope (because there's ...

7 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Roflo‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is it okay for a duck/splay footed individual to rock climb?

If an individual walks with a pronounced duck-footed (splayed) gait, and is actively trying to correct this, is there any harm for the individual to begin rock climbing. I feel like a lot of edging...

1 answer  ·  posted 6y ago by StrongBad‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to tape torn skin to continue climbing?

I have got this annoying issue when bouldering: a sheared callus on the small finger: I would like to tape this and continue climbing (with extra caution). I am not an expert in taping, and any ...

2 answers  ·  posted 6y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 6y ago by System‭