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Q&A

Posts tagged climbing

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Q&A How to achieve a climbing anchor that can withstand an upward load?

Commonly when setting SARENE-SA trad anchors on multi pitch routes the only protection available are nuts/wires. Additionally, there is very rarely an option to place a nut to protect against an u...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by ldgorman‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Methods for taping injured wrists

I would like to ask If someone knows a method for taping wrists that supports wrists. I got stretched tendon in my wrist and I would like to support it with tape. I have only found methods for maki...

0 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by David‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question rock-climbing
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Q&A Do climbers shave limbs?

I just bumped into this page at the Bicycles at StackExchange, which talks about how shaving limbs can help a cyclist. Does the same apply to climbers?

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question rock-climbing
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Q&A Leader injured during multipitch trad climb, what to do?

I've been working on improving my self-rescue skills, but the skills I've learned so far seem to pertain mostly to single-pitch climbing. For example, a lot of people emphasize knowing how to escap...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do to a safety knot when abseiling with 2 ropes?

If I'm abseiling with a double rope what's the common way to add a safety knot? Is it a prusik knot around the 2 ropes instead of 1 or something like 2 prusiks?

0 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Tiago‭

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Q&A Major fall, same for static and dynamic?

The UIAA says that you should retire your gear after a major fall is a fall with fall factor > 1.77. Now I was wondering if this criterion is the same for all kinds of material ? Dynamic rope...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by Nick‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to go about a long traverse with just Undercut holds?

I just recently got information about an easy climbing route. I am not sure about the grade though. The only part the worries me is a traverse, which is exposed. And long traverses have always been...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Places to Find Rock Climbing Ball Holds

What are some places to purchase rock climbing ball holds like the ones on Atomik Climbing Holds and Three Ball Climbing? I'm looking to build something similar to cannonball alley on American Nin...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by etangins‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Bouldering in California in the summer

I have a few questions concerning bouldering in California (Mickey's beach and Castle rock) during the month of August. We have two crash pads and a guide book for bouldering in the area. I have ha...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Khalid Bou-Rabee‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A What does it mean to free a climbing route?

Sometimes I read articles about climbers having freed a route. For example: "Lynn Hill freed the Nose". What does this exactly mean in terms of how they climbed it? Specifically: Are they not al...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A What are common rock-climbing footwork mistakes and how I can spot them?

(This question is related to How can I improve my footwork while rock-climbing?) What are common rock-climbing footwork mistakes and how can I spot them? More specifically: When I started climbin...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Jon‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Do Half/Twin/Double Ropes get Middle Marked?

I marked my single rope so I can find the middle when rappelling and also to give my belayer a warning when I'm on a route of unknown length. I am going to purchase a set of half ropes soon for so...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by AM_Hawk‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Shortening a shoulder-length sling to half-length?

For trad climbing, I normally carry shoulder-length slings racked on my harness, set up in Alpine draws at 1/3 their full length. When I'm leading and need to extend my protection, I either use the...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is there a best practices guide online for rock climbing safety?

I've recently started sport climbing outdoors and was looking for some definitive safety information published by some reputable organization (i.e. American Mountain Guides Assocation, AMGA), but I...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Dealing with large runouts during sport climbing

I was doing a sport climb recently where there was a pretty good distance between bolts, resulting in long rope runouts. Falling before the next bolt could easily cause a person to deck on a ledge....

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by shimizu‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing Webbing with Taped Ends (where & why)

I was reading through the AAJ, and I came across a report from April this year when somebody died due to an anchor failure. The webbing was joined with some masking tape at the ends, instead of kno...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by Raz Peel‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question gear rock-climbing
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Q&A Most Eco-Friendly way to Identify a Climbing Route

In Ontario where I live and do most of my climbing the routes are not clearly marked. Guide books also lack clear approaches and thus it just turns into a big guessing game of what route you're on...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by AM_Hawk‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Knot to turn cord into loop (load bearing)

What's the best knot for turning a piece of cord into a loop? The cord would then be used for a prusik so needs to be very secure and load bearing.

5 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

Question knots climbing prusik
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Q&A Which notable/challenging mountains can be ascended with few technical skills?

By technical skills I am specifically referring to advanced ropework and rock climbing skills. I understand that Aconcagua is achievable with good fitness, equipment, self-awareness, medical skill...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by Venture2099‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Rating unorthodox climbs

This question is sprouted from Brick Wall Rating I occasionally climb in places where it seems unorthodox, such as a brick wall. I've found that even with the plethora of hand holds that buildings...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by Liam McInroy‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Reference request: books on self-rescue while climbing

Can people recommend books or online resources on self-rescue for roped climbing? As a beginning trad leader, I think I should have a basic understanding of topics like how to escape a belay and ho...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Ben Crowell‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A In an abandoned quarry, is it possible to pry loose rocks from walls until stable?

I have an abandoned quarry near my house, in which I would like to make a hiking route. Almost all of it is enjoyable hiking and easy scrambling, except one part, which requires climbing (estimate...

1 answer  ·  posted 9y ago by anatolyg‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Brick Wall Rating

Hi I am a new boulderer and have climbed many difficult routes, or official ones for that matter. Currently when I am not able to go out the local region, I attempt to send the side of my house. Th...

2 answers  ·  posted 9y ago by Liam McInroy‭  ·  last activity 9y ago by System‭

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Q&A Seeking photographs of "climber's hunch"

I couldn't find any pictures of this online. (There were some simulated hunches, but no pictures of people with bad posture.)

0 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by aex‭

Question climbing bouldering
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Q&A Effective training for rock climbing

I've felt of late that my rock climbing has somewhat plateaued. I seem to be stuck at around V4 bouldering and 6(b) rope climbing. I'm pushing my grade as best as I can but simply climbing doesn't ...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

Question climbing training
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Q&A How to get started on canyoning?

Since I saw one of the last EOFT-films I am really curious about trying canyoneering, but I can´t quite figure out how to get started. What would you suggest to try it? What would be the minimum of...

4 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Paul Paulsen‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How dangerous is it to fall 3 meters when lead climbing?

Consider a vertical rock with clip-ins 3 meters apart, dynamic rope, no more than 15 meters ascent. I guess most probable and dangerous is to fall just as one is clipping in. This way the rope is ...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Vorac‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Some mobile helper for tree climbing?

When I do geocaching, I meet sometimes caches on trees. Some of them can be climbed by me without equipment, but in some cases I miss some flexibility or height to reach them :) Is there any mobil...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by alfresco02‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Indoor vs. Outdoor sport climbing

As I started indoor climbing this year I would like to know what distinguishes it from outdoor sport climbing, especially when you are lead climbing. I know that there are huge differences in safe...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Backup prusik for Abseiling: Where does it go?

When abseiling from an anchor during rock climbing, I like to use a backup prusik as a potential lifesaver in case I screw up. However, I have heard different advice on where to put it, both for w...

3 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Lagerbaer‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Improving sport climbing skills

I recently made a sport climbing course mainly to give it a try and also to learn something about belaying in general. It's fun, challenging and I got hooked quite a bit. Overall I was around 10 ti...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by Wills‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Color vision deficiency a dead end for mountaineering career, as an athlete?

Is having color vision deficiency a problem for mountaineering ? Can one so, pursue mountaineering as a career ? Do professional mountaineering schools and expeditions accept climbers with color vi...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by user7524‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Replacing rope/cord/tape/slings on protection gear

We all know that due to age-related deterioration, ropes, harnesses, slings and other "software" should be replaced after a certain period even if thay have not been damaged or been involved in hig...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by Paul Lydon‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Is it possible to check the safety of a used climbing rope?

In the comments to my answer on Can you use a rope that has been in storage for a few years? the question arose if one could have some expert check a used rope whether it is still safe to use. As a...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by Benedikt Bauer‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Hauling a pack during climbing

Generally when doing multi-pitch climbs, I prefer to just climb with a light pack. However, sometimes that's just not possible and the pack(s) must be hauled instead. What are some good ways to ha...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by Felix‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How to get rid of the smell from indoor climbing shoes?

When I go climbing indoors I typically wear my climbing shoes without socks because this gives me slightly better control over my feet while climbing which I particularly need in overhangs. The pr...

0 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by Michiel‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Climbing volcanic mountains

I'm planning to climb a few volcanic mountains in Indonesia the coming year. Mostly Mt Kerinci and a few adjoining ones (I'm still making a list of those near by to Kerinci). I believe that most v...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by Ricketyship‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I tie a figure of 8 knot

How would I tie a double figure of eight knot for attaching to a rock climbing harness?

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by System‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

Question knots rock-climbing
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Q&A Rock Climbing - Beginner's Guide for Quick Improvement?

I've recently become quite interested in climbing, and I have been frequenting a local gym. As I become more serious, I'm curious how to most quickly improve. For example, Should I focus on im...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by bhekman‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I mount a hangboard in an apartment?

In the last few months I have come to the conclusion that I need to have a fingerboard at home if my climbing is to get to the next level. But the problem is that I live in an apartment. How can I ...

1 answer  ·  posted 11y ago by theJollySin‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A What Rope to purchase?

I climb comfortably at 5.11c at my gym (Top Rope Only), but I have never climbed outdoors so a group of experienced climbers have offered to teach my friend and I how to lead sport routes. I have ...

3 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by AM_Hawk‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Cramping Fingers

I recently re-started to get into rock climbing but I've been having a lot of tough time with my fingers cramping up after I get off the wall. And the worst part of it is, I have to paddle down a g...

1 answer  ·  posted 10y ago by WedaPashi‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A How do I set a top rope anchor?

When rock-climbing, I need to set up a top-rope anchor so if I fall, it will minimize chance of injury. So, how would I safely set one up?

2 answers  ·  posted 12y ago by Reverend Gonzo‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

Question climbing top-roping
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Q&A Alternatives to retreating quickly when caught in a lightning storm when rock climbing?

The general advice I have heard for surprise lightning storms when climbing is to retreat. Since retreating quickly is not without danger itself and often is not even all that quick (I personally h...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by DudeOnRock‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Which is more durable: Hard shell or soft shell?

From my experience, I've only ever used hard shells simply because I've always thought they were made for more treacherous weather. However, I recently saw a video by Patagonia that claimed soft sh...

2 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by MarkE‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Who places the anchors that rock climbers use?

I've always wondered about the permanent "hooks" (it seems the proper term for them is "anchors" — pitons, bolts, etc.) that are placed in the some rock climbing routes to help climbers. Since they...

3 answers  ·  posted 10y ago by waldyrious‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

Question rock-climbing
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Q&A How to maintain climbing strength while training for a marathon

Over the next 6 months I will be training for my first marathon. This means I will be running 4 times a week, with at least one long (10-20 mile) run each weekend. I have run several half-marathon...

2 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by theJollySin‭  ·  last activity 10y ago by System‭

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Q&A Basics of Via Ferrata

I am going for a two week trip in two weeks. We are two people, with bicycles and backpacks. Small sections of the trip pass through rocky trail with steel ropes. The weather is summer, but the pos...

1 answer  ·  posted 11y ago by Vorac‭  ·  last activity 11y ago by System‭

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Q&A How tight should the line be kept for toproping?

I was climbing with someone recently and they complained that there was too much slack any time the line wasn't completely taut. By the same token when they were belaying me it was almost hard to ...

3 answers  ·  posted 11y ago by Russell Steen‭  ·  last activity 11y ago by System‭

Question climbing top-roping
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Q&A When rock climbing, what is the difference between top-roping and leading?

I'm starting to learn how to rock climb, and there seem to be two types of climbing, top-rope climbing and lead climbing. What's the difference between the two, and what would be better for a begin...

1 answer  ·  posted 12y ago by Reverend Gonzo‭  ·  last activity 11y ago by System‭